Diamond Shapes Guide

Named after the Dutch diamond cutter Joseph Asscher, this step cut shape may look square, but thanks to its characteristic clipped corners, it actually has eight sides – which is why Asscher cut diamonds are also referred to as octagonal, or square emerald cuts.

Its stand-out features are the precise cut measurements and geometric symmetry, which make for beautiful, yet unusual and striking engagement ring for those who love a modern, contemporary look.

The Asscher cut became the world’s first patented diamond, and the patent remained in place until the Second World War.

This classic diamond is square or rectangle in shape with soft, curved edges that make it resemble a cushion or pillow. Dating back to the 19th century, it was originally called the “Candlelight Cut”, because it reflected the light in such an exquisite way. It was the favourite shape for engagement rings for more than a century.

Its brilliant cut gives it lots of sparkle, similar to that of round diamonds, although the Cushion’s large facets produce more fire than round diamonds. However, some Cushion cuts are made with smaller facets on the bottom of the stone, known in the trade as ‘crushed ice’ diamonds. They tend to have even more sparkle than non-crushed ice diamonds due to having more facets.

Cushion diamonds are perfect for romantics who love styles that are vintage yet timeless.

The rectangular Emerald cut is so named because it was originally created for cutting emeralds, which could easily be damaged when being cut.

The Emerald cut’s long, broad facets produce strong flashes of light rather than sparkle and show off the stone’s extraordinary clarity. As this shape is also good at hiding colour, it can be wise to prioritise clarity over colour with Emerald cuts.

The Emerald Cut originated in the 16th century, but regained popularity during the Art Deco movement of the 1920s, when step-cut styles were welcomed as a change from the more delicate, ladylike designs of the earlier 20th century. It is noted for its beautiful ‘hall of mirrors’ prismatic effect and suits those who prefer an elegant and sophisticated look rather than lots of sparkle.

Considered by many as the quintessential symbol of romantic love, the Heart shape can be traced back to the 15th and 16th centuries, although it could have referred to any pear-shaped or triangular diamond with smooth, rounded corners.

The classic, stylish Heart shape emphasises the diamond’s brilliance, sparkle and fire and it makes a playful alternative to the Round Brilliant cut.

This exquisite shape makes the perfect engagement ring for true romantics who love both sparkle and simplicity.

Said to have been modelled on the smile of French King Louis XV’s mistress, Marquise “Madame” de Pompadour, Marquise diamonds have a unique, elongated and flattering shape and emit a vivid sparkle.

The curved sides join together at the ends to form a kind of boat shape and, together with the length, give the appearance of a bigger stone than other diamond shapes with the same carat weight.

Ideal for those who are looking for something modern and bold, and who love an intense, eye-catching sparkle.

Oval diamonds might have been around for hundreds of years, but their popular, brilliant cut shape was only designed by the Russian-born diamond cutter Lazare Kaplan in the 1960s.

Ovals are a modified version of the round diamond and exude a similar amount of sparkle and fire. Their elongated shape and beautiful curves make them an incredibly flattering choice, so it’s little wonder that they are the second-most popular shape after the round brilliant cut diamond.

Known for their sophistication and elegance, Oval shaped diamonds offer supreme sparkle and beauty for those who love a blend of tradition and fashion.

A combination of the oval and marquise shaped diamonds, the Pear cut diamond was invented by Flemish diamond cutter Lodewyk van Berquem in the 15th century.

This flattering shape, also known as a teardrop or pendeloque cut, is known for its versatility and can be worn either with the tip pointing down towards the fingernails or up towards the wrist – or even horizontally, for those who are after a very modern look.

Its brilliant cut produces a beautiful sparkle and fire, and its romantic shape is perfect for those who love styles that are delicate and feminine, yet striking and full of character.

First developed in the 1960s, the Princess cut is a square shaped, brilliant cut diamond with four pointed corners. It is known for its fire, sparkle and symmetry.

Its crisp, sleek lines make it a very popular choice for an engagement ring, while the brilliant style cutting makes it more sparkly than other geometric shapes.

Bold and angular, the Princess cut is ideal for those who love exquisite, contemporary designs with lots of sparkle.

Although the Round diamond has been in existence for centuries, it wasn’t until 1919 that Belgian mathematician and gemmologist Marcel Tolkowsky, who studied the reflection and refraction of light in a diamond, invented a design that would later become the modern Round brilliant cut. This typically has 57 facets; 58 if the culet is faceted.

Its symmetrical facets are precisely cut and angled to reflect the optimum amount of light, giving it unparalleled sparkle, fire and brilliance.

The iconic shape is the most popular for engagement rings today and the Round Brilliant Cut diamond is loved for its classic simplicity, beauty, magnificent sparkle as well as its modern elegance.