Why Oval Engagement Rings are the New Classic

When you think of a “classic” engagement ring, chances are a round brilliant diamond might come to mind. But over the past decade, there’s been a quiet shift: the oval cut is emerging as the new benchmark of timeless elegance. With its flattering silhouette, luminous sparkle, and rising celebrity appeal, the oval shape is rewriting the rules of what a “classic” ring looks like.

In this post, we’ll explore the history, the glamour, and the enduring appeal of the oval cut — and why more couples are choosing oval engagement rings as their signature. We’ll also share tips for picking the perfect oval ring so you can find one that truly feels like “the one.”

Though its silhouette evokes old-world elegance, the modern oval cut is, surprisingly, a relatively recent addition to the world of fine jewellery.

The oval brilliant cut as we know it today was formally introduced in 1957 by renowned diamond cutter Lazare Kaplan, a master craftsman whose name is still highly regarded in the diamond industry. His innovation lay in adapting the sparkle-maximising principles of the traditional round brilliant cut into a more elongated, elliptical form, one that would retain brilliance while offering a larger visual presence.

One of the key appeals of an oval cut is its optical illusion of size. Because of its elongated silhouette, an oval diamond often appears larger than a round diamond of the same carat weight when viewed from above. It also tends to lengthen the appearance of the finger, a visual advantage that has contributed to its rising popularity.

One of the most iconic oval-shaped rings in recent history was not a diamond, but a deep-blue sapphire. The engagement ring worn by Princess Diana, later passed down to Catherine, Princess of Wales, features a 12-carat oval sapphire surrounded by a halo of diamonds. Designed by British jeweller Garrard, the ring brought worldwide attention to the oval shape and is still regarded as one of the most famous engagement rings of all time.

There’s something undeniably captivating about an oval diamond. Its shape feels familiar yet distinctive; a graceful elongation of the classic round brilliant that offers a more refined, romantic aesthetic. It’s this blend of timeless elegance and modern appeal that’s placing the oval cut firmly in the spotlight.

Oval diamonds vary in their length-to-width ratio, which affects how elongated or rounded they appear. A ratio of around 1.35 creates a fuller, more balanced shape, while a longer oval (1.45–1.55) creates a slender, elegant line that elongates the finger.

A unique quirk of the oval cut is what’s known as the "bow-tie effect" - a shadowy pattern across the centre of the diamond caused by the way light reflects within the stone. It’s common and can add depth and character, but too pronounced a bow-tie may interfere with the diamond’s brilliance.

Oval diamonds are naturally elegant, so it’s important to select a setting that echoes rather than competes with their form. For instance:

• Elongated halos can enhance the diamond’s silhouette without overwhelming it.

• Tapered side stones (like baguettes or pears) gently guide the eye toward the centre, creating flow and balance.

On the other hand, larger side stones or overly intricate halos may detract from the centre oval, especially on smaller hands.

The metal you choose can completely change the feel of the ring:

• Yellow gold offers a rich, timeless warmth, ideal for romantic vintage styles.

• White gold or platinum gives a sleek, modern edge and enhances the diamond’s brightness.

• Rose gold (available by request) brings a soft blush hue for those who love a modern romantic look.

For added character, consider milgrain edging or delicate detailing around the band, or opt for a simple bezel or split-shank setting.

The oval cut doesn’t follow fashion; it refines it. With its lengthened form, graceful symmetry and enduring brilliance, it offers a sense of poise that doesn’t seek attention, but quietly holds it. For those who want their engagement ring to feel both considered and distinctive, the oval is a shape that speaks with elegance.

Explore our oval jewellery collection, where refined craftsmanship meets lasting beauty. Need help choosing? Our customer care team is always here to offer personalised guidance, should you wish to talk through your options.